Fine Jewelry

Bentley Celebrates Centenary with an Exceptional Masterpiece Jewel

Bentley reveals a spectacular pendant set with a beautiful 20.08 natural pear-shaped yellow diamond; the setting, designed by Bentley designer Chris Cook.

The stunning diamond pendant was revealed at the Jewellery Arabia Show in Bahrain in its glorious gold and platinum setting, the 20.08 carat pear-shaped fancy-yellow diamond sparkles with the mystery and magic created by master cutters to reveal the brilliant beauty and fire of the stone.

THE MAKING OF THE DIAMOND PENDANT

Design for a special stone

This pendant’s journey began with Bentley designer Chris Cooke, who created the original designs for the magnificent gold and platinum settings displaying the unique jewel that was chosen to celebrate this year’s centenary of Bentley Motors. He was inspired by the EXP 100 GT, the concept car that embodies the brand’s vision of luxury mobility during the next phase of its future development.

“The collaboration between Heinz Mayer and Bentley Motors showcases the pinnacle in handcrafted quality and design,” commented Chris Cooke.

“For our centenary, we created a one of a kind jewellery piece pulling inspiration from the heart of the EXP 100 GT. The centre piece in our concept car is an elegant visualisation of the users contact point with the vehicle. With this jewellery piece we wanted to echo that.

“The design is a similar dynamic form manipulated in such a way that supports and protects the teardrop shape of the stone. Its overall purpose is to be a beautiful visual contact point between the customer and the rare stone. “

The final designs, then given to expert Master Goldsmiths at Heinz Mayer in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, for a feasibility study. The first prototypes are crafted, checked and compared to the original design files. Through this painstaking method, the collaborative arts of graphic computer design and craftsmanship develop and fuse into one.

Expert Design and Craftsmanship

The next stage after the design is finalised and approved involves the work of expert craftsman and women, trained in the hallowed traditions of jewellery-making dating back to Roman times, is brought into play. Wing-like shapes are meticulously honed in platinum, and bent to hold a cradle of 18 karat yellow gold, encrusted with 56 natural diamonds and a laser engraved insignia, to commemorate 100 years of Bentley.

This cradle is put to use as the holder of the prestigious 20.08 carats pear-shaped yellow diamond. A hidden treasure is added…An inside plank of yellow gold follows the curve of the platinum, is welded and soldered to it, eventually becoming one fluid shape. This cocoon holds 30 full-cut round natural diamonds to surround the precious pear in the centre.

Yards of Italian platinum chain are brought into the workshops where specially trained chain-goldsmith experts cut the chain into more than two dozen segments, before soldering them back together with 18 karat gold mountings. The exquisitely crafted chain holds 20 white round natural brilliant cut diamonds.

Together with a platinum clasp and two Bentley wing badges, holding the inscriptions of diamond weights and clarity, as well as the serial number, the chain is finally assembled. An equally well-crafted extender is added so that this masterpiece can both be worn at two lengths of 42 cm and 45 cm.

Using the scientific wording of the laboratory report of the prestigious Gemological Institute of America, Bentley’s Centenary jewel is: Natural fancy intense yellow even body Colour; Cut grade: Very Good; Purity or inclusion: VS2; Fluorescence: none; Total weight 20.08 carats. The remarkable yellow colour of the diamond is the result of nitrogen in its composition – the nitrogen molecules absorb blue light which differentiates the radiant yellow diamond from their colourless counterpart.

Polishing and setting the stone

After the work of the master goldsmiths is done, the mounting is brought to the polishing department, where a senior craftsman with a lifetime of dedicated attention and judgment brings out the first sparkle. Again, traditional tools, leather as well as modern polishing cloths, perform the task.

It takes hours of discussion with the team before the gemstone setter goes to work where under the guidance of years of training, decades of hands-on experience, a good eye, a steady hand and the heart of a lion are now called upon. Careful and expert craftsmanship ensures that no slip or unnecessary excessive force can harm the work that has gone into this piece of art. Carefully, the master setter bends and shapes the claws, to hold the stone securely. Masterfully, he gently forces them to sit in the place where they should secure the stone for the next 100 years or longer.

Now, the finished piece is returned to the polishing department. While the pre-polish was a demanding task that took several hours, the final polish takes well over a day. Now, the polisher executes his art with an extra dash to bring out the final sparkle of brilliance and scintillation.

Platinum requires different methods to apply polish than gold, and the polisher is the master of both techniques.  It’s a testament to the great skill-set of the Heinz Mayer craftsmen that the centre stone is protected while the surrounding metals are polished and the chain is kept apart from the high-revving polishing wheels.

Viewing the finished pendant

At last, the work is done. After many weeks in the workshop, the team of craftsmen and designers come together to view the result of their hard work. After they have reviewed their handiwork and accepted the result, all the moulds are destroyed to ensure that the masterpiece stays forever truly unique – and can never be duplicated.

The pinnacle of craftsmanship in platinum and yellow gold, with a fancy yellow pear-shaped natural diamond of 20.08 carats in the middle, and a further 1.00 carats of round brilliant-cut natural diamonds to adorn it finally come together, to salute the 100 years of Bentley in this one of a kind jewel.

Information about the wider Bentley Jewellery collection, along with retailer information, can be found at www.bentley-jewellery.com

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